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3/4/2010 @ 2:44:24 pm by perennialflowergardening.com

Late Winter Notes on Tree Care - Part 4

 

This is a portion of an article written in February ‘05 for the Hull Massachusetts Garden Club by Julie McIntosh Shapiro.  It is printed here with the author’s permission.  It is a long article, so it will be presented in several segments. 

 

While you’re looking out your windows, now might be a great time to examine the trees on your property and those close by, to see if any have suffered damage from the latest winter storm. Mario Vaden, an Oregon state arborist checks in with us with his list of things to look for in a dangerous or hazardous tree:

 

 

9. SUSPENDED, DETACHED LIMBS OR TREE TOPS.

Sometimes limbs and tree tops break loose and only fall a few feet, getting caught in the remaining parts of the tree, or in other trees. Sometimes they are hard to spot. Spend plenty of time viewing your trees from different angles as you look up and down throughout the entire canopy. Check your trees to make sure the tip of the leader, or tips or leaders, are still intact.

 

10. A LARGE DIAMETER TRUNK OVER A SMALLER DIAMETER.

Some trees are grafted, one variety on another, and there will be a variance of trunk diameter, large over small. But usually, tree trunk diameter is consistent, with only a slight bit of taper moving upward, except maybe, the base of a Giant Sequoia. But what if your tree has, for example, a 12" diameter trunk up to 5' above the ground, and then immediately becomes an 18" diameter trunk? What is that? Sometimes a wire or rope has been left on a tree. Then the bark and tissue engulfs it. What happened, is that the roots sent nutrients up through the inner xylem, or wood tissue, to the leaves. Then the leaves made food, feeding the top, but not the roots, because the food can go down only as far as the girdled part of the trunk. That’s because the food made by the leaves moves down in the Phloem layer just under the bark. And when that layer is strangled, it stops the flow to the roots. In this case, the trunk, limbs and leaves above the girdle get fed, but the trunk and roots below the girdle starve. It takes several years for a tree like this to die. Each year it gets weaker, and more hazardous. The top gets bigger and heavier, but the lower trunk supporting it stays almost the same size while slowly starving to death and getting weaker.

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3/4/2010 @ 2:43:59 pm by perennialflowergardening.com

Late Winter Notes on Tree Care - Part 3


 

This is a portion of an article written in February ‘05 for the Hull Massachusetts Garden Club by Julie McIntosh Shapiro.  It is printed here with the author’s permission.  It is a long article, so it will be presented in several segments. 

 

While you’re looking out your windows, now might be a great time to examine the trees on your property and those close by, to see if any have suffered damage from the latest winter storm. Mario Vaden, an Oregon state arborist checks in with us with his list of things to look for in a dangerous or hazardous tree:

 

6. CRACKED TRUNKS.

Cracks in bark can be totally natural and normal. Usually, cracks in the wood are not a good sign. If your tree's trunk - the wood - is cracked, call for an inspection as soon as you can.

 

7. BROKEN OR HANGING BRANCHES.

These are branches that have broken and 'healed' poorly, or, have broken and are dangling by a 'thread' so to speak. They may be alive or dead. Professional 'circles' may refer to these as 'hangers' at times.

 

8. DEADWOOD.

These are branches that are attached in a proper position, or improper, but will eventually come loose and fall. They should be removed before they fall. Even a 1" diameter limb can cause serious skull injury if it falls - especially if its water-soaked. These can fall any season. In the spring, a dead wet limb can dry and shrink in its socket, allowing it to fall. In summer, wind or small animals can dislodge limbs. In fall, the weight of water from rain can bring limbs down as the moisture soaks into the dry wood. In the winter, snow, rain, wind and ice can all dislodge dead limbs. To tell a dead branch from a living one when the sun is shining, feel the branch. If it’s cold, in the warmth of the sun, sap is flowing through it; if it is warm to the touch it is dead and should be pruned.

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3/4/2010 @ 2:39:35 pm by perennialflowergardening.com

Bargains on Bestsellers

Website Review

 

Well here it late winter, my seeds are ordered, my tools are ready for the season, so to fill the long cold days I like to read.  With the cost of new books these days I am always on the lookout for ways to save money and still enjoy the latest editions.  The Bargain Buster website is a new effort to present a central collection of information on saving money on those things we wish to purchase.  The article “Bargains on Bestsellers” offers lots of ideas on where to look for new books and still save money.  This site offers information on many bargains, not only books.  Articles on Health and Personal Care Products, and Sports and Fitness Items are there ready to help you save money.  By the looks of it, this will be a site I will visit frequently to learn of ways to save money when shopping.

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3/4/2010 @ 2:15:10 pm by perennialflowergardening.com

Late Winter Notes on Tree Care - Part 2

This is a portion of an article written in February ‘05 for the Hull Massachusetts Garden Club by Julie McIntosh Shapiro.  It is printed here with the author’s permission.  It is a long article, so it will be presented in several segments. 

 

While you’re looking out your windows, now might be a great time to examine the trees on your property and those close by, to see if any have suffered damage from the latest winter storm. Mario Vaden, an Oregon state arborist checks in with us with his list of things to look for in a dangerous or hazardous tree:

 

4. HOLLOW POCKETS, CAVITIES AND DECAY.

Inspect trees for peeling bark, hollow cavities and conks or mushroom resembling growth on the bark. Mushrooms (or fungus) may be a sign of decay, especially if the origin of the growth is from within the wood as opposed to the extremity of the bark alone. Each of these conditions indicates some kind of weakness. Sometimes the tree needs to be removed, many times it can be preserved.

 

5. HISTORY OF THE TREE ZONE.

Has the tree been topped? Have you or your neighbors applied herbicides recently (hot weather especially)? Has the grade of the soil been changed? Have roots been damaged or cut, possibly from trenching or concrete work? Have new plants or a lawn been installed in the recent past? Have other trees been removed, altering the intensity of available sunlight? Have any treatments been done in the area - non-tree-related - such as treating for moss on a roof or driveway?

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3/4/2010 @ 2:13:04 pm by perennialflowergardening.com

Late Winter Notes on Tree Care - Part 1

 

This is a portion of an article written in February ‘05 for the Hull Massachusetts Garden Club by Julie McIntosh Shapiro.  It is printed here with the author’s permission.  It is a long article, so it will be presented in several segments. 

 

Well, did anybody have to sharpen his or her snow shovel the past three weeks? Yikes. In some places in our area, trees were covered from stem to stern with snow pack. We really got blasted. But our bulbs and perennials are fast asleep under it all, not phased in the least. The best I can figure is that we received about 24-40” of snow in about three days.

While you’re looking out your windows, now might be a great time to examine the trees on your property and those close by, to see if any have suffered damage from the latest winter storm. Mario Vaden, an Oregon state arborist checks in with us with his list of things to look for in a dangerous or hazardous tree:

 

1. MULTIPLE LEADERS OR TRUNKS.

Many trees have multiple leaders, like trunks. Many times, the union of these, where they connect, are weak 'V' shaped unions. These could allow the tree to split down the middle like two people pulling on a wishbone. There are remedies for conditions like this.

 

2. LEANING TRUNK POSITION.

Check to see if your tree's trunk has moved from a vertical position to a leaning position recently. Or, was it leaning before, but more now. Gaps and fissures in the soil near the trunk may be a result of the root system pulling loose. Some healthy trees will lean a little regardless, like the ones at the edge of a grove, leaning for light.

 

3. WEAK LIMBS OR BRANCHES.

As with major leader unions, branches also, can be weakly attached when the union is 'V' shaped. A 'U' shape curve is better. The 'U' shape allows layers of wood to build up. Other limbs can develop noticeable cracks from the weight of wind, snow, ice and even rain. Keep an eye out for poorly connected branches.

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